(Take note that there are no party buses here, so spitting or hiring a designated driver is necessary.) If winemakers in this area of the Loire make natural wine, chances are it's because they tasted the work of Thierry Puzelat at Clos du Tue-Bœuf this is your first stop.
Rent a car and grab some croissants two hours later you'll be tracing the path of the castles of the Loire toward the farms and converted garages where the greatest producers of Loire natural wine are toiling as if no one in New York is swooning over their latest release. The restaurants and wine bars of Paris can be so distracting it's easy to forget that the wine itself is right down the road. And It’s an Even Better Excuse to Get Out of Paris When you're eating what he describes as “uncomplicated food”-think raw oysters, fish, scallops, or beef-you want wines that are “easy to drink, where you don't know you're finishing a bottle.” Raw Stuff Jeremiah Stone, the chef behind New York City restaurants Contra, Wildair, and Una Pizza Napoletana, loves how natural wine complements crudos. “It can be anything, whether it's vegetables or seafood or meat-I just love the smoky, charred notes with natural wine.” “I really like natural wines with things on the grill,” says Frank. Grilled Stuff The next time you're outside grilling, instead of cracking a beer, try a bottle of natural wine. “There are all of these really wonderful, savory natural wines that have an earthiness to them, and I think they're such a nice complement to everything from carrots to red beets to kale and squashes, things like that,” she says. Vegetables Sommelier Dana Frank, owner of Bar Norman in Portland, Oregon, says that natural wines play particularly well with vegetables. Sam Schube What to Eat with Your All-Natural Grape Juice But until then, I know what I'll be bragging about at the next dinner party. And I'm sure that, someday, I'll be sorely disappointed by one. Of course, it's not that simple not all orange wines look or taste the same. (“Orange wine is a really safe bet for a dinner party,” Spina said, as it both cuts through fatty foods and pairs with lighter stuff.) It'll be a little off-center, and it'll work with just about any meal. Instead of gambling on, like, a super-tannic Bordeaux, I can default to orange. Instead of turning a red-wine grape into something pink and bubbly, general manager Amanda Spina explained, “you're trying to get more tannins from a white wine.” This, I realized, was my wine cheat code. To oversimplify, orange wine is like reverse rosé. It represents all the best stuff about natural wine: It's surprising and highly drinkable, not the sort of thing you have to think about too seriously or pair with, say, beef bourguignon. That red wine has turned into The One, the wine I dream about when planning a dinner party or sitting at a less-than-exciting bar wishing I were drinking something better. (I'm a cretin, and I like things that taste like something.) It tasted like electric juice, not hefty like your dad's favorite Cab or boring like a certain type of “light” red. And then there was the glass of Partida Creus's Sumoll, drunk at some restaurant party, that turned my formerly tepid feelings about red wine into fanaticism. There was the magnum of white wine that tasted like stone fruit rubbed into limestone and sprinkled with sea salt that I rudely hoarded at a friend's birthday after my first sip. There was the cloudy prosecco that tasted more like an ultra-funky sour beer than the stuff that people make spritzes with. Over the past few years, nearly every bottle that has had me maniacally typing its name into my Notes app has been a natural wine, the trendy class of booze that is as close to pure fermented grape juice as possible. Occasionally, though, that fandom turns into sheer obsession-you know, like watching Forgetting Sarah Marshall and then spending the next ten years telling strangers at parties that it's our culture's greatest musical comedy (which it is). I've only ever been a casual, somewhat naive fan. I'll always take the wine pairing to avoid making a decision. I've always been into wine the same way I've been into movies: I think they're great, but I've never put any energy into understanding how or why the good ones are good.
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